Diamond Education and Anatomy!

The Cut of a Diamond

You may think that the cut of a diamond is the way it is shaped. But in reality, a diamond’s cut refers to how well-proportioned the dimensions of a diamond are, and how these surfaces, or facets, are positioned to create sparkle and brilliance.
Diamond shape is related to the outline of a diamond. Although the round brilliant diamond is one of the more popular shapes, for those searching for something different, we also offer other non-round fancy-shaped diamonds. Those fancy shape diamonds also cost less than the round brilliant cut diamonds. There are also many factors of how the cut of a diamond can affect the way a diamond appears in size for its carat weight. This is based on its proportions; with the actual measurements of the ratio of a diamond’s dimeter in comparison to its depth. For each carat weight of diamond based on its shape, there are specific proportions of measurement that play a key role in grading the cut of a diamond. These key factors are essential in determining the diamond’s beauty and brilliance, as well as its cost. The cut, also known as proportions of the diamond, can affect the price of a diamond with the same carat weight, clarity and color up to 30-40%. From every diamond shape, the Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds, will show the most brilliance when light plays off it, as it is cut with more facets than any other diamond cut.
The characteristics of a well-cut Diamond will have superior brilliance, fire, & scintillation.

What Do These Characteristics Mean?
Brilliance is the term used to describe the reflection of white light
Fire is the term used to describe the dispersion of light into the colors of the rainbow spectrum.
Scintillation also referred to as the sparkle, it is the play of contrast between dark and light areas.
Table: This is the largest facet of a gemstone
Crown: The top portion of a diamond extending from the girdle to the table
Girdle: The intersection of the crown and pavilion which defining the circumference of a diamond
Diameter: The measurement from one girdle edge of a diamond straight across to the opposing side
Pavilion: The bottom portion of a diamond, extending from the girdle to the culet
Culet: The facet at the tip of a gemstone.
Depth: The height of a gemstone measured from the culet to the table


What is the most expensive cut of a Diamond?
When people discuss diamonds, they usually focus on the carat. In reality, it’s the cut of the diamond that can be the biggest factor in the price. The Ideal cut diamond, also known as the excellent cut diamond, is the most expensive diamond cut, because it optimizes light performance and creates the most impressive sparkle. When referring to the shape of the diamond, the Round Brilliant Cut is one of the most expensive shapes, when cut to the perfect or near perfect proportions.
Above is a chart showing 3 diamonds all of the exact same carat weight. Yet all 3 appear slightly different in size and proportion. The Ideal Cut Diamond in the center, also known as a diamond cut to very good – excellent proportions will allow all the light that enters it, to perfectly refract back. To the eye, this diamond will be the most brilliant and sparkle the most. This diamond will be the one that would be more valuable of the 3, and the cost would reflect this.
The Diamond with the shallow cut would appear large for its carat weight and size when looking at it from the top, if comparing it to an ideal cut diamond. When light enters this diamond, due to its shallow cut, part of the light entering it, would get lost from the bottom, rather than refract back to the top. This diamond, would not be quite as brilliant and sparkly as an ideal cut diamond, and would cost less than a diamond cut to ideal, excellent, or very good proportions.
The Diamond with the Deep cut would appear smaller for its carat weight and size with looking at it from the top, if comparing it to an ideal cut diamond. When light enters the deep cut diamond, part of the light entering it would get lost from the bottom side, rather than refract back to the top. This diamond would not be as brilliant and sparkly as an ideal cut diamond, and would cost less than a diamond cut to ideal, excellent, or very good proportions.
At Design Jewellers & Diamonds Ltd. we do not sell poor cut diamonds. Instead our GIA Certified Gemologists, hand-select the best cut diamonds, for every budget that we work with to best suit your needs. We will take the time to sit down with you, and further educate you, as well as answer any questions that you may have, & assist you in making the best choice that fits your budget.
We give you the option of choosing a GIA or other certified diamond, based on your selection and preferences.
Fancy Cut Diamonds

At Design Jewellers & Diamonds, we give you many options when it comes to fancy cut diamonds as well as the traditional round cut diamonds.
If you prefer a fancy shape diamond, color grade can affect these stones differently than the round cut diamonds. Certain fancy shaped diamonds tend to hide color better than others. The color of the setting you choose, may affect the look of the color glow that your diamond shows, just like with the round cut diamonds. Fancy cut diamonds are also a great option if you’re looking for something different, and hope to spend a little less. Although fancy cut diamonds may have certain attributes that can affect their prices, if comparing the same carat weight, clarity and color of fancy cut diamonds to the traditional round cut diamonds, the fancy cut diamonds tend to be less expensive, sometimes costing up to 25% less than the round cut diamond.
The most brilliant cut diamond would be the Round Brilliant Cut. This is due to it having the most facets than any other cut, causing the light to play off each facet. The least brilliant cut of diamond would be the Emerald Cut, or the Baguette Cut Diamond, as these diamonds are cut with less facets.

The Color of a Diamond

Diamond color also has a grading scale. When increasing in alphabetical order, the prices will increase, and when decreasing in alphabetical order, the price will decrease. The options are there for you to choose for whatever your personal preference and budget may be.

D-E-F grade is considered to be the top on the diamond scale. From the D-E-F range, D would be absolutely colorless, and the most rare of the 3. These range of diamonds will have a pure ice-like appearance, and the cost on such diamonds will be more than those of the next grades.

G-H grade is near colorless, with no discernible color. These diamonds are the next best choice, as they may still appear quite close to the higher grade diamonds, and are a great value for the quality.

I-J color diamonds will begin to show faint color when compared to the higher grade diamonds. These diamonds are budget-friendly, and pair nicely when mounted in yellow or rose gold settings.

K color diamonds will begin to show slightly more color than the J color grade. They are also a budget friendly option, and will pair well when mounted in a yellow or rose gold setting.

Although we give you the options to choose the right diamond best suited for your liking, we do not normally supply diamonds below J color. When custom orders require diamonds as part of the designed piece, we will help you choose the best color grade of diamonds available to suit your budget. Most of the diamond colors we work with are G-H or higher, but other options may be available at your request. We also sell fancy colored diamonds in various colors, which are graded on a completely different grading scale. These diamonds can be very rare and the price will reflect their value.
Something to Consider

The color of a diamond becomes more visible with a larger stone. Depending on the size of diamond you may be looking for, color would be play an important factor in its appearance. With larger stones, we would recommend an H color grade or higher. Another thing to consider is what color of setting you prefer your diamond to be mounted in, as the color of the setting can amplify the reflection of the color of your diamond. For example, if you prefer a white gold or platinum setting, it is recommended to go in to a higher color grade diamond of at least a G-grade or above. A white gold or platinum setting can make a higher grade diamond appear more white and ice-like in color, than if mounted in a yellow or rose gold setting.
If a yellow gold or rose gold setting is what you’re after, it may bring out a slightly different glow in your diamond. Depending on your preference, you can choose which diamond color grade will best suit your preference and budget.

Fancy Color Diamonds

Diamonds occur in the natural rainbow spectrum of colors. Red, orange, yellow, green, blue, pink, purple and more. These are known as colored diamonds. These diamonds can be very rare, and valuable. Although the majority of colored diamonds sold may be color enhanced, it is estimated that only 1 in every 10,000 diamonds naturally possesses some color. The more intense the natural color, the more rare and valuable the fancy colored diamond will be. Fancy color Diamonds are also graded on a different grading scale.
Diamond Clarity
Diamonds are unique, and are made underground through enormous pressure and heat. Natural inclusions and blemishes are inevitable. This is where diamond clarity becomes part of its nature. Diamond clarity is the assessment of small natural imperfections on the surface of the diamond and within the diamond. Surface flaws are called blemishes, while internal flaws are known as inclusions. In most cases, a diamond’s beauty is rarely affected by these natural occurrences, as in most cases, they are not visible to the naked eye, but only under strong magnification. These natural occurrences, are also referred to as the diamond’s characteristics. Since inclusions are part of the natural formation of diamonds, the diamond that possess the least and smallest inclusions tends to be rarer. Due to this, these diamonds receive the highest clarity grades, and end up costing more, than diamonds that possess more inclusions.

Choosing Clarity

Diamond clarity can be confusing, as there are many misconceptions when it comes to this part of the 4 C’s. Some people believe that in order to have the most beautiful diamond, you need to look for a high clarity grade. But this is not the case. When it comes to clarity, most inclusions or imperfections, are not visible to the naked eye, but rather need at least 10x or more magnification in order to be visible at all. When choosing a clarity grade, by going up towards the higher clarity on the scale can greatly affect the price. Each step up on the scale increases the price each time for something that may not be visible at all to the naked eye. When looking at a diamond without magnification, and not being able to see its natural inclusions, would classify this type of diamond as an “eye clean” stone. This means, that the inclusions are too small to see without magnification.
A diamond’ shape and size can affect its clarity.

If looking at the diamond clarity chart, depending on the size and shape of diamond that you are looking for, an SI-1clarity or higher, may look no different in clarity to the naked eye. This can help you maximize your budget when searching for the right diamond. If looking at smaller size diamonds, depending on the size and positioning of the natural imperfections, some of these imperfections in smaller stones may not be visible to the naked eye if even going lower on the clarity grading scale than the range of SI-1.

The smaller the diamond, the less visible the inclusions. This is something to consider when choosing a diamond, and planning your budget.
If you are planning on buying a diamond that is over 1.00ct., or are considering buying a fancy shape diamond that has less facets in the way its cut, than the Round Brilliant, (including an Emerald Cut, Asscher Cut or Baguette Cut Diamond,) the natural diamond flaws in these types of diamonds may appear slightly more visible, and in this case, you may consider going up in clarity.
While clarity affects price, there are many factors that can help you to decide which clarity grade is right for you.

At Design Jewellers & Diamonds, we have a team of Diamond experts always ready to help you with any questions that you may have, so that when it comes to your diamond, you will feel confident in making the right choice.

A Summary of Clarity

Types of Inclusions: Clouds, Feathers Crystals or Minerals, Knots, Cavities, Cleavage, Internal Graining.
Types of Blemishes: Polish lines, Scratches, Nicks, Pits, Chips, Breaks, Dark or light spots

I Clarity Diamonds
Have obvious inclusions that are likely to be visible on larger diamonds, and can impact beauty.
SI1, SI2 Slightly Included (SI) Diamonds
Inclusions are usually not visible to the naked eye. Inclusions are noticeable at 10x magnification. If eye clean, SI diamonds are often the best value. SI2 inclusions may be detectable to a keen unaided eye, especially when viewed from the side, rather than the top.
VS1, VS2 Very Slightly Included (VS) Diamonds
Inclusions are not visible to the naked eye. Very minor inclusions ranging from difficult (VS1) to somewhat easy (VS2) to see at 10x magnification. Although more expensive than the SI Diamonds, they are also a great value.
VVS1, VVS2 Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS) Diamonds
Inclusions are not visible to the naked eye. VVS diamonds have minuscule inclusions that are difficult even for trained eyes to see under 10x magnification. VVS clarity is very rare and results in an eye clean appearance. The characteristics of these diamonds are minuscule and very difficult to see even under 10x magnification.
Internally Flawless (IF) Diamonds
Inclusions are not visible to the naked eye. IF stones are very rare. Some small surface blemishes may be visible only under a microscope on IF diamonds. IF diamonds have no inclusions within the stone, only possible surface characteristics set the grade. They are visually eye clean.
Flawless (FL) Diamonds
Extremely rare, and nearly impossible to find! This diamond is 100% free of inclusions. No internal or external characteristics or flaws. Less than 1% of all diamonds are FL clarity.
Diamond Carat Weight

The term carat is often confused with its size. But a diamonds carat, is in fact its weight, rather than size. This is also where the cut of a diamond plays an important role. Depending how well the diamond proportions are cut, will also affect how the diamond appears in size for its carat weight. For example, a diamond with a poor cut may look smaller than how it should for its carat weight, and this will also affect its sparkle due to light not being dispersed through the facets at its best.
Below is an example of 3 diamonds, all based on the same carat weight, clarity and color, where the middle diamond is cut to perfect or near perfect proportions, and the 2 diamonds shown next to it are cut to imperfect or poorer proportions. Although they all have the same carat weight, all 3 will appear different is size, and all of them will be priced much differently. Sometimes up to 30-40% differently. The middle diamond would cost the most from the 3 diamonds shown. But this diamonds cut will be the most brilliant and valuable of the 3.
Diamond Carat Price

The carat weight of the diamond, usually plays a big impact on the price of the stone, mainly due to marketing and culture. But with any diamond, cut is thought to be one of the biggest factors that affect the price of a diamond of any size.

The Round Brilliant Cut Diamond will cost more than a fancy shape cut diamond, due to its shape combined with matching its proportions and cut.
Once you have an idea of what shape of diamond you prefer along with an approximate size you may have in mind, we can assist you in narrowing down your search for that perfect stone to fit your budget.

Tips on Choosing your Diamond Size

-Bigger is not always better! Since the price of a diamond is largely based on its carat weight, and with every jump in weight it can make a major difference in its cost. Choosing a diamond weighing a few points of a carat less than what you had in mind, can save you money, while visually not appearing any different in its setting. For example, if you want a diamond that is 2.00 carats, the price of a diamond of such size can drastically jump from a diamond that is just slightly lighter in weight, for example, being 1.89 carats. Visually this slight difference in weight will go unnoticed, but the price difference will be quite noticeable. This is a good thing to keep in mind when searching for a diamond within a certain budget.
When choosing your diamond, plan your budget around the diamond’s cut. This is one of the most important factors of a diamond. The diamond that has a well-proportioned cut, will have the maximum sparkle. Choosing a bigger diamond with a poorer cut, can make such a diamond appear duller and lifeless.

Fancy shape cut diamonds cost less per carat than the round cut diamonds. Depending on the type of setting you plan on mounting a fancy shape cut diamond, the right setting may actually give the fancy cut diamond a larger appearance for its carat.
When choosing a diamond for a ring setting, finger and hand size also play a role in the way that a diamond will appear when worn. Someone with a smaller finger size wearing a diamond ring, can make that diamond appear much larger for its size than it actually may be.

The setting or mount that the diamond will be placed in also can play a major role in the way a diamond size can appear. Certain mounts having additional smaller side or surrounding diamonds, can also help to create a larger look for the overall piece.
Diamond Carat Size Chart

Pictures shown are to help better understand how carat weight and the millimeter measurements should be approximated at. Diamond pictures shown may slightly differ in size in reality.

Why you should buy a Diamond through us!

Although the information about the 4 C’s of Diamonds, will be helpful for you to have a better understanding of what to look for in a diamond, and how price affects diamonds, there is still more to know that can play a major role in the diamonds appearance and cost.

When buying diamonds on-line from any seller or other site, you may learn information and see pictures of diamonds being sold on-line, but the reality of many on-line purchases may surprise you, and may not always be what you expected. There is always more to know, and we are here to help you further!

Design Jewellers & Diamonds Ltd. is Different than your average on-line diamond sellers!
Our online store helps us continue to serve our clients from all over the globe!

But what makes us different is that we don’t only sell you on a picture and a price, we sell you quality and in-house service to follow. Design Jewellers is not only an online store, we have a physical store location that is also built with an entire custom design and jewellery manufacturing & repair studio where we have our team of experts ready to assist you.

In-house, we don’t sell you on samples or pictures of what you can get. We show you the real thing!

We allow you to physically see our diamonds in-house, where we show you actual live diamond product, and explain to you the differences of what you are physically seeing in an actual diamond, and not just from a picture online or from a premade sample of what a real diamond will look like.

You are in great hands when working with our team!

When working with Design Jewellers & Diamonds Ltd., every order is handled with special care and attention
by our team of experts.

When buying a diamond from us, even from our online store, you are not having a computer algorithm choose the diamond for you based on information that you entered. We actually take your order directly to our specialists, where our GIA Certified experts specially hand select your diamond directly from the top cutting houses from around the world, ensuring maximum beauty, & quality combined with competitive pricing.

Design Jewellers & Diamonds Ltd. has a Conflict-Free Diamond Policy

Design Jewellers & Diamonds Ltd.ethically sources the diamonds that we sell. We have a zero-tolerance policy towards conflict diamonds. The Kimberley process, which is an international process used to track and certify diamonds, tracks diamonds from the time of mining to the market in partnership with the United Nations, governments, and other organizations that works to prevent the trade of illegal diamonds. We only purchase diamonds through the largest and most reputable supply sources, and will continue to support any process that works to uphold legitimacy in the diamond trade.

At Design Jewellers & Diamonds Ltd., We Have an Incredible Supply of Certified Diamonds. Our Diamonds are sourced from the top cutting houses, and all come certified, including GIA Certification.

We Will be Glad to Further Assist You. For Help in Finding the Best Diamond for Your Budget, Please Contact Our Experts.